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We speak to the founder of Fielding & Nicholson, the tailors to know for exceptional craftsmanship and world-class fabrics
Summer event season is almost upon us, a time when we can look forward to race days at the likes of Aintree and Epsom, then of course there is Wimbledon and a plethora of summer weddings. If you're a man thinking of what to wear, then look no further. Fielding & Nicholson is an independent tailors that provide a highly personal, exceptional service, creating pieces from some of the finest fabrics in the world. It has its origins in the North West of England, and now has showrooms on Sackville St, close to Savile Row, in Manhattan, and Zurich - and a dedicated service here in Cheshire.
Founded by award-winning tailor and menswear specialist Ian Fielding-Calcutt in 2006 it is a go-to for those with impeccable sartorial taste all over the UK and the world – the team regular travel for personal appointments to clients from the Scottish Highlands, to the City of London, Europe and the United States. The tight knit and long established team share decades of tailoring history between them. It is also one of the few tailoring brands offering a 5-year guarantee has its own in-house cutter who has over 40 years' experience in the business working with the likes of Paul Smith, Anderson & Shepard, Welsh & Jeffries and personally for members of the British Royal Family.
We spoke to Ian about his brand, why Cheshire is such an important market for him and about what he thinks defines Cheshire style:
What drove you to set up your own tailoring brand?
I was successful in working for another brand and never felt that I was delivering the absolute best product and service I could. I felt like I was being held back by the product, marketing and ultimately management of that brand.
What would you say sets you apart from others?
We offer a unique 5 year guarantee which covers clients for accidental tears, weight changes and miscellaneous alterations on their clothing. For our shirts we can replace collars and cuffs as one example of this. Service is another factor as we pride ourselves on delivering the best possible service and value. Between the three of us we have an average of 10 years' service as a minimum so clients are never left with an inexperienced team member.
What three suits would you say every man needs in his wardrobe?
Definitely a navy suit, for a powerful look, and a grey one for a more relaxed and consultative look. Black is also handy to have as we get older.
You have studios based close to Savile Row in London, as well as in New York, Zurich and Manchester - why is Cheshire another important area for you?
The business was born in the north west and I have a long-standing connection to both Manchester and Cheshire. My brother-in-law Lewis Calcutt, who works in the business, is Manchester born and bred. He currently lives in Knutsford with his beautiful wife Leanne and kids Matilda and Arlo.
Can you tell us something about how you look after your clientele in Cheshire?
Lewis looks after clients personally and has a keen eye for personal style. Being from the region his finger is on the pulse of current trends; his regular trips to London ensure he is fully abreast of national styles. Lewis offers an outstanding level of customer service and absolutely no request is too much trouble for him. One example of this springs to mind. A client of his was planning a trip to America and, as Lewis has many friends there, he literally helped plan the client's entire trip. On top of this he travels around the country at a moment notice and will not settle until his clients are 100% happy.
What would you say sums up the style of the Cheshire man?
Sophisticated, stylish, debonaire.
The spring occasion season is getting closer, what are your three top tips for men when it comes to dressing for an event?
Understated luxury is the new luxury. No labels or flashy designs. Choose well-fitting clothes over everything. Too tight is NOT right.
Consultations can be booked to create formal business suits, country & shooting pieces, smart casual, wedding & formal suits and bespoke shirts in over 1,000 different fabrics. Primarily these cloths are handpicked from three main partners; Dormeuil, Loro Piana and Scabal, but also the likes of Dugdale Brothers, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Abraham Moon, Reda and many more. In the last few years Fielding & Nicholson has expanded the offer to include jackets, jeans, t-shirts, chinos, sweaters and hoodies. There is also a range of ties, cufflinks and leather goods.
The brand is committed to long term relationships, and even longer term quality, believing that good tailoring is something that stands the test of time. You will never find a Fielding & Nicholson suit hidden and forgotten at the back of someone's wardrobe, no matter how many years it has existed for. For this reason the suits come with a five year guarantee to cover wear and tear, and fluctuations with clients weight, a dedicated suit-for-life.
Cost for the service is structured via four ranges and three packages:
The Icon Range. From £1200 - £4500, this is entry level made to measure. Measurements will be taken and the suit is laser cut and made to finish. Any alterations would be at the studio after the fitting. The main difference between this and the Gallery Range (below) is that there isn't a try-on fitting and there aren't as many fabric options available in this range.
The Gallery Range. From £3000 - £8000, is a premium made-to-measure collection. As well as measurements, clients will be asked to put on a try-on garment in the meeting, so body shape is accounted for eliminating any configuration issues before the suit is made. The pattern will be adjusted and only minor tweaks will be required.
The Elegance Range. From £5000, is the Savile Row experience. In-house master tailor Raymond is given your measurements, who hand draws an original pattern and chalks it onto the fabric. This is then cut out and hand-stitched together, along with the chest canvas and padding. The suit is then brought to the first fitting It will be pinned and chalked for any minor alterations and taken back to Raymond where it's then completely taken apart, re-cut with any of the minor tweaks and made to finish.
Handmade Shirts. Starting at £300 - £650, each shirt takes 9 hours to make by more than 26 experts and artisans. They are made with immense care and using 23 to 24 invisible hand stitches per inch – more than any other shirt you can purchase. Luxurious 3.5mm mother-of-pearl buttons feature as standard. They are sourced from the finest Australian oyster shells, cross-stitched to the body and inserted into 120 stitches per inch buttonholes.
For those looking to build a wardrobe of bespoke, tailored pieces – likely for professional purposes, there is also a range of three packages:
Package One. From £3700, includes 2 suits (or smart casual combinations), 4 shirts and 4 ties (or the equivalent). This package also comes with a £100 gift voucher.
Package Two. From £7400, includes 4 suits (or smart casual combinations), 8 shirts and 8 ties (or the equivalent). When purchased this includes a £200 gift voucher.
Package Three. From £15,200, includes 8 suits (or smart casual combinations), 16 shirts and 16 ties (or the equivalent). When purchased this includes a £500 gift voucher.
To book an appointment visit www.fieldingandnicholson.com.
You can also follow the brand at @Fieldingandnicholson
Photos: Interviewee Ian Fielding-Calcutt and Lewis Calcutt.